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Thread: winterizing

  1. #1

    Question winterizing

    First season with 2010 36RD5S and not happy with winterizing. If you set the valves as the sticker shows you can't flush the hot side of any faucet. How do you ensure water is out and RV anti freeze is in the lines?

  2. #2
    Are you sure you didn't miss opening another valve or something? I have to bypass the hot water heater by turning a valve behind my hot water heater. Then I pull the plug on the hot water heater (1 1/16" or 27mm). I let the pump suck pink stuff out of a bucket and run it through. I leave the fresh water drain valve under the trailer open.

    Hope that helped some.

    Gregg

  3. #3
    Super Moderator/Donating Member Steve & Carol's Avatar
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    My process is like Gregg's. Before pumping RV antifreeze I blow all the lines out with compressor, although I know pumping the RV antifreeze in the lines will do the same thing. I make sure RV antifreeze is coming out all faucets(don't forget outside shower), hot and cold and toliet. I also dump RV antifreeze in grey and black tanks, about a gallon in black and a 1/2 gallon in both galley and grey, the tanks have been thoroughly flushed. I leave valve open on fresh water. Probably overkill but I've never had a problem.
    Steve & Carol
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  4. #4
    Summerwinds, you are doing something wrong, as stated make sure you turn the bypass valve off so no water or antifreeze goes into the hot water tank. Then unscrew the plug in the hot water tank letting all the water out of that.

    On your water pump you should have a small short piece of hose stick that into the antifreeze bottle and use the water pump to suck the antifreeze out of the bottle. Do one spigot at a time and make sure the antifreeze bottle does not go empty when you are pumping antifreeze out of your spigots as you will then suck air in.

    When I use to use antifreeze it only took two gallons for me to do everything. Also make sure you flush your toilet till antifreeze come out of it also.

    With the hot water bypass closed your water pump should pull antifreeze from the bottle, if I remember right there is a valve also on the water pump you should close to make the pump draw antifreeze from the bottle.

    I am never in real cold weather anymore so I just blow the water out of my creek, they make a screw in attachment you screw into the city water inlet then just hoop an air line to that with a constant 20 to 25 pounds of pressure no more. Then same thing just keep opening one spigot at a time till no more water comes out only air. I usually do that twice to make sure all the water is out.

    Hope this helps if you need more help just let a message here.
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  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by bruceadmin View Post
    Summerwinds, you are doing something wrong, as stated make sure you turn the bypass valve off so no water or antifreeze goes into the hot water tank. Then unscrew the plug in the hot water tank letting all the water out of that.

    On your water pump you should have a small short piece of hose stick that into the antifreeze bottle and use the water pump to suck the antifreeze out of the bottle. Do one spigot at a time and make sure the antifreeze bottle does not go empty when you are pumping antifreeze out of your spigots as you will then suck air in.

    When I use to use antifreeze it only took two gallons for me to do everything. Also make sure you flush your toilet till antifreeze come out of it also.

    With the hot water bypass closed your water pump should pull antifreeze from the bottle, if I remember right there is a valve also on the water pump you should close to make the pump draw antifreeze from the bottle.

    I am never in real cold weather anymore so I just blow the water out of my creek, they make a screw in attachment you screw into the city water inlet then just hoop an air line to that with a constant 20 to 25 pounds of pressure no more. Then same thing just keep opening one spigot at a time till no more water comes out only air. I usually do that twice to make sure all the water is out.

    Hope this helps if you need more help just let a message here.
    Confucius: One need to ask. If stored in heated place, does one not need to winterize?

    I really need to sleep longer.

    M
    2003 F250 CC, 6.0
    2005 CC Silverback 33LBHTS

  6. #6
    on my creek in the left storge compartment there are several valves, hot and cold bypass, heater bypass, and fresh water pump inlet. According to the sticker, to winterize, close all and open inlet and it suckes in the antifreeze. after doing this I get antifreeze out of cold side only. I'm concearned about the hot side.

  7. #7
    John
    The older creeks do not have the manifold like yours has and the winterizing process might be different it still sounds like your hot water bypass needs to be turned off, you should get antifreeze out of the hot side of all faucets, if you do not I would check with my dealer.
    Jack

  8. #8
    The sticker is wrong. You can follow the hot side through the valves from the pump to see where the closed valve is. I don't know your set up... you might have to remove a panel to get access to the area you need to see. I would have to leave myself a note on something so I could save time next year.

    Gregg
    Last edited by 747Bluecustom; 11-16-2010 at 11:58 AM.

  9. #9
    If it already hasn't been mentioned, don't forget to run antifreeze through the spray on the kitchen sink and in the shower. Also, if you have a washer, be sure antifreeze it by skipping through the cycles. Make sure you do all the drain traps too.

  10. #10
    I picked up my 40rl5 this afternoon from the shop. Hopefully the level up system is finally fixed . Been there since October 13th . I looked at the diagram and I would say open the hot valve and cold valve but leave the center valve . Wait I better go back over to farm and see tomorrow. I haven't winterized yet . Going to pidgeon forge Thursday for along week end and will winterize when we get back.

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